jackie66
24-03-2009, 11:59 AM
I am often asked if I would make a dress for someone. I now say; 'OK if you bring me the fabric'. This is usually enough to kill the idea.
I am not being naughty by saying that, it is just that very few people understand what is involved in making a dress. I do not buy a ladies pattern in the requested style. I draught a completely new pattern, and style it to suit.
The basis of dressmaking -or couture- is the basic block pattern. This contains all the accurate measurements of the client. This block pattern is drawn around on to paper---- then that pattern is put safely away for it has done its job. The next step is to design the style. This means that by manipulating the dart positions. slashing and spreading where pleats or gathers are desired and adding seam allowances. The basic outlines are NEVER altered, for these represent the accurate size of the person. ie; back length, front length etc.
once a complete basic dress has been made and corrected using cheap fabrics, then, and only then can you start styling the dress. This is the stage where the persons personality is taken into account and all preferences tried. This can only be done using trial and error, and the reason why at least 3 fittings are required.
A short skirt can easily be made at the pattern stage since it is merely lines on paper. This is where the client can actually help in the design-- by simply making a pencil mark at the desired spot. The same applies to the desired neckline-and shape of neckline. the client can actually draw the desired neck shaping.
The fabric is a big concern since everyone has ideas of their favoured fabrics and prints. The term 'fabric hunting ' is used literally since modern fabrics are very poor compared to the halcyon days of the 50's. It can take a lot of hunting before you find your compromise piece to actually make the dress.
Modern fabrics are very poor since they use less threads per inch in the weaving. This makes the fabrics feel 'gutless'. I get over this by making all my dresses as couture where the fabric is mounted on net, overlocked together, then used as one piece. I the line the complete dress for comfort.
I have made some single layer dresses for summer wear, but have used heavier weight curtain fabrics in doing so. These fabrics have some lovely crisp prints and are in good quality cotton. I use the lighter weight curtain fabrics for these dresses. bearing in mind that they need to be ironed for every wearing
I am not being naughty by saying that, it is just that very few people understand what is involved in making a dress. I do not buy a ladies pattern in the requested style. I draught a completely new pattern, and style it to suit.
The basis of dressmaking -or couture- is the basic block pattern. This contains all the accurate measurements of the client. This block pattern is drawn around on to paper---- then that pattern is put safely away for it has done its job. The next step is to design the style. This means that by manipulating the dart positions. slashing and spreading where pleats or gathers are desired and adding seam allowances. The basic outlines are NEVER altered, for these represent the accurate size of the person. ie; back length, front length etc.
once a complete basic dress has been made and corrected using cheap fabrics, then, and only then can you start styling the dress. This is the stage where the persons personality is taken into account and all preferences tried. This can only be done using trial and error, and the reason why at least 3 fittings are required.
A short skirt can easily be made at the pattern stage since it is merely lines on paper. This is where the client can actually help in the design-- by simply making a pencil mark at the desired spot. The same applies to the desired neckline-and shape of neckline. the client can actually draw the desired neck shaping.
The fabric is a big concern since everyone has ideas of their favoured fabrics and prints. The term 'fabric hunting ' is used literally since modern fabrics are very poor compared to the halcyon days of the 50's. It can take a lot of hunting before you find your compromise piece to actually make the dress.
Modern fabrics are very poor since they use less threads per inch in the weaving. This makes the fabrics feel 'gutless'. I get over this by making all my dresses as couture where the fabric is mounted on net, overlocked together, then used as one piece. I the line the complete dress for comfort.
I have made some single layer dresses for summer wear, but have used heavier weight curtain fabrics in doing so. These fabrics have some lovely crisp prints and are in good quality cotton. I use the lighter weight curtain fabrics for these dresses. bearing in mind that they need to be ironed for every wearing