Latest dressmaking project

[Iona Black]

Just thought I'd share some pics of my latest project with you girls to see what you think. This is made from a sari I found recently that had a couple of flaws in the material that meant it went in the "make" pile instead of the "wear" one. Currently it's around a size 12 and will fit 5 foot 7 lengthways roughly. Nothing has been sewn yet... It's just pinned to the mannequin as I cut the pieces out.

I'm not using any pattern for this. It's one of my one-off-make-it-up-as-I-go-along frocks... lol

Hope you like it!


http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Ep7WEAQ9zX4/Smoez3Wy9dI/AAAAAAAAAA0/hUjOOHZmhSg/s1600-h/DSC00024.JPG

Just the skirt and sleeves

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Ep7WEAQ9zX4/Smoe0EfskZI/AAAAAAAAAA8/xD1jPefbRzM/s1600-h/DSC00025.JPG

Sleeve detail

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Ep7WEAQ9zX4/Smoe0t4I3cI/AAAAAAAAABM/DeHKNJl5M9w/s1600-h/DSC00028.JPG

Bodice under construction

I'm still working on the back...

[Reggie]

Only one thing to say WOW

[Iona Black]

Thank you hunny... I'm rather pleased with how it's turned out myself.

I figured out the back last night (well, round one this morning), and now just have to recut two pieces as there's not enough seam allowance, then stitch the whole thing together.

It's currently looking for a home if anyone is interested... Drop me a line if you are.

[Chrissy64_uk]

really nice

chrissy

[Ellena]

NICE!Ellena

[Petra Susan]

Size 12 and 5' 7" is exactly me. It does look very pretty and love that colour of blue.

Janine

[Iona Black]

I've no idea why it's come out looking blue, because it's actually more turquoise than blue... Silly camera can't get the colour right...

I've been trying to work out a price for it too, based on material costs and time spent, and been having no luck. Mind you, it's still only half made, and I have yet to do the lining, which is turquoise dupion silk. I do like working with good materials, especially silks...

I'll actually be glad to get this sewn and finished, because the bit I like best is creating. Once the designing bit done, and it's just a case of puting it together it becomes less of a challenge... lol

I'll see if I can get a better pic of the bodice detail, because I'm really pleased how that turned out.

[Iona Black]

Well, I finally worked out how the zip is going in at the back.

I've made it so it will sit to one side and be hidden behind the left side of the back opening with hooks and eyes to close the centre back. It'll need an extra pair of hands to do it all up, but it will look a lot better than having a zip in the back, even if it was a concealed one.

It's been quite an interesting project so far, as I've had to do some things backwards... I'm having to put the lining together complete, then the dress will have to be done complete and the two put together round the zip. It will mean I'll have to do a wee bit of fiddling with things and some creative work to get the two pieces to sit together, but it's certainly not boring!

I already have another project forming, with part of it already pinned to the mannequin, but nothing cut. The next one is a shot purple and gold dress with a Queen Anne neckline and embroidery detail on the bodice and lined gold/purple shot silk organza skirt with embroidery on it. If anyone is interested, let me know, because, as I said, nothing is cut so far, so size is still variable.

Hugs

Iona

[jackie66]

Have you had any response yet, Iona? People tend to get all enthusiastic about having garments made, but very few follow up and actually get a dress.
I now have a routine where I move on any garments surplus to requirements. I take them to events and put them on the tabletop for anyone to take if they want them. If no takers they then go for landfill.
When I design a dress I test the pattern by actually making up a full dress. This shows me any errors and the best order of construction. I gave 3 garments to an interested party attending the Beaumont event in Harrogate, this weekend. They were all test pieces. Victorian style dresses.
I have had no training of any kind in the field of dress design or making so all my work is literally experimental.
I drove to Harrogate on saturday morning and picked up the girl and took her back to my Leeds flat for several hours. She was able to try some of my dresses and I took some photos of her wearing them -- The PVC ballgown seems to be a popular choice.. I wonder why.
I would not even try to actually SELL any of my work. I have suggested making a couture dress for just the fabric costs but still no-one is prepared to make the necessary visits. The girls dont seem to understand that during the visits the fitting is done but so is the actual styling and the finished garment is actually the style that THEY prefer,
Ah Well!! I did offer. Theres nowt so queer as folk.

[Petra Susan]

Would love for a tailor made dress, or made to measure suit.

Dress like the red prom dress in my profile would be ideal. and I saw a Black & White Chanel suit to die for the other day that I just fell in love with. Alas the £500 price tag made me fall out of love pretty quickly. Ahh but to dream.

I'm pretty willing to travel for any fittings if you ladies could make me something like either of those things.

Janine

[jackie66]

I could do it if you were prepared to travel to Leeds several times. Most of my work is handsewn, since I cannot sit at a machine and do accurate work.
I do not---- cannot. charge for my time, I simply make garments for the joy of it.
The choice is yours. The only cost is the fabric. If you have a fabric in mind see if you can spot it in your travels. I am not a commercial dressmaker

[noeleena]

Hi ...Iona
Will you be doing any more . how many hours are you spending making them up . what years you know i am a edwadian girl . 1900 to 1910 for those who are not in the know . i quite like the renaissance as well . any way . that is so very neat .& by hand ... lovely i.v done a bit of sewing so yea .singer over 60 years old . fashon era by pauline do you know of her have a look i am on her website .. hey its neat
...noeleena...

[Iona Black]

Hi Noeleena,

I've actually stalled on the Edwardian dress at the moment. I have a few jobs on, so it's been put to one side for the minute. I'll get back to playing with it when I've got nothing else doing.

I'm happy making things from most periods to be honest. I'm going to have to make myself some 17th century kit for next season, as I'm going back to English Civil War battle reenactment. I've also made medieval costume for reenactments, 10th century costume for Viking reenactment and all sorts of other goodies.

I've got a few jobs lined up already with a couple of people after dresses for christmas, some alterations wanted, another party dress for another of my girls on another site, and one is coming over on Saturday to choose a sari and have it made up into the cheat version along with a petticoat to go with it. I also have a Goth skirt and bustled corset to make for one of my non-trans friends, and the CO of the civil war regiment I belong to has asked me to make the new issue of regimental soldiers coats once they get the material in November. I'm going to be kept occupied over the winter at least!

Sadly I can't do this stuff for just material costs, because bills have to be paid. The government don't pay me very much for being too ill to do my normal line of work, so the odds and sods of sewing keep the old wolf from the door.

I may sound really busy, but to be honest, I've worked out that on average I can probably do about one garment per day. The soldiers coats will take no time at all to knock up, so that's shoved the average time down. Dresses will probably take a week, maybe less, depending on any trims, beadwork and so on wanted. It's just a case of getting the right materials and discussing the wants and wishes of the customer that really takes the time.

Anyway, pattern making next for a satin skirt...

[Iona Black]

Went material shopping today. Lovely. I got lots of things I needed including hessian to interline period corsets. I know it won't be seen, but I want to know if it behaves better than heavy canvas as a stiffening fabric. It's a lot looser in weave, so should be interesting to work with.

I also managed to get hold of some gorgeous taffeta for making a top for one of my girls, and the satin and lining for the skirt that I mentioned earlier. My bargain of the day was a lovely remnant of velvet which will make a gorgeous 17th century corset outer layer. I may have to work the whole rest of my costume round it and have it as a sort of stomacher piece showing at the front of the dress. Another interesting project to keep me going through the winter.

I think I'm going to be kept out of mischief a fair bit if things keep going like this.

[jackie66]

It is really wonderful to discuss fashions and fabrics, and even better to bring the ideas to life. However, the transgendered folk, be they TS or TV, have not had a lot of experience in general. They are in a wonderful world of exploration. Most are still seeking the style/colour that looks well on them.

The shops and other outlets stocking ladies fashions cater for real gender ladies. This make sizing a problem these days since there seems to be no benchmark regarding size numbering. I suspect that it is manufacturers making a smaller range of sizes that is to blame. If they could get away with it they would make everything "one size fits all".

This makes life difficult for the gender dysphoric. The ordinary tranny can occasionally find suitable items, but the ones going for transition have nature working against them sizewise. The hormones alter body shaping. This might have been OK in past eras since clothing was also sized in half sizes, thereby giving a bit more choice.

There are TG friendly dressmakers who can do a good job of making a reasonable fitting garment, but they are few and far between. I have met several of these ladies at the events who do really superb work dressing their Tg partners.

Some girls see a dress in a catalogue or shop and desire sets in. Unfortunately the sizing ruins the style when the garment drapes the male form. I have heard so many complaints from girls that manufacturers dont make the zips strong enough.

It is a great pity that girls dont understand my method of working. They dont seem to grasp that in order to test the accuracy of basic block patterns, a dress has to be made. When all adjustments have been made and noted, this dress is then scrap and thrown away. It is only after creating the accurate basic block pattern that styling can be done. The style created then is the style that THEY have chosen. Another failing is that girls claim that they have busts. So they may, but are they big enough to create a feminine shaping. Without a bit extra, they find that they look like a boy in a frock. Some can get away with it , but not many.

Others want modern styles, which isnt really a style at all. So they are better off looking at the high street shops. Some when looking at my flickr site, say that they are nice but not what they like. I already know this, but my point is not the style but the quality in the way the dress is made. I used to send my dresses to Danielle in Southampton ---until she complained that I was making my dresses in a smaller size- no answer to that really.
Ah well!

[Iona Black]

I tend not to use patterns for making things. I'll make a toille if I feel I have to, but other than that, I just use the measurements I've taken and make it up from there. It's handy to have the person there for a fitting, but it's not always essential with the things I make.

I had a couple of girls over yesterday, which was fantastic, since the t-girl was only on her second outing as a girl and her wife came along to meet me. They both went away happy with their purchases (I took them to "my" shop) and I have the garments here for alteration for the t-girl because she's so tall, and material for making her sari and a shalvar kemees for her wife. They actually spent about 5 hours here, and only about an hour of that was dressmaking. The rest of it was chat about t issues, general chat and gossip about the people we knew on the forum we are both on.

Making things for trans-people is much the same as doing it for anyone- you work to their measurements, discuss the colours they like, material that will suit the garment they want and so on. I leave a lot to personal choice, although I do give a lot of advice based on personal experience of a huge range of fabrics over the years. I have lots of fabric here, and while it's not necessarily the colour they might want, it gives a good demonstration of the drape and look of the fabric when it is made up.

I find that zips are generally ok, as long as there isn't too much stress on them. If it's got a lot of stress on it, it means the zip will break, so a larger size is preferable, and it can be altered by people like me to the correct fitting.

I know there's a dearth of people who do trans-friendly seamstressing, which is why I do what I do.

[noeleena]

Hi...
For sizing i get away quite well . so do not have much of a problem of things fitting . i had a look at the renaissance time & the books i have . have some nice dresses there . that i.ll make up later . our edwardian girls look at curtin fabic as they make most of thier own clothes . i have found some nice patterens so will look at getting some one dress i.ll get done is 7 yards . just a bit heavy so . will find one that will be lighter . the colour is nice just . the weight. any way . i.ll get there .
...noeleena...

[Iona Black]

Well, nothing doing of late... I'm having medical problems that I need to see my doc about. Unfortunately the biggest problem is being in a lot of pain from the knee down, so walking to the docs is nigh on impossible.

Think I might be phoning and asking for a home visit shortly... *sigh*

[jackie66]

My Gp has organized an appointment to get a powered wheelchair supplied by NHS. The one I use at present is just about worn out. If you have walking problems why not ask your GP to get a wheelchair supplied.

[Iona Black]

I'm hoping it's just a temporary thing that has some sort of explanation in my meds or some other thing that can be sorted. A wheelchair would be a little hard for me anyway, since I live on the first floor of a building and my flat is a little too narrow. I don't particularly want to end up in one either given my age and the stuff I have planned to do...

Ho hum... I shall wait and see what the doc has to say about it all.

[noeleena]

Hi...Iona
I.m sorry to hear of your concerns thats not so good . sure hope you get it sorted . Having meds all so can do things . not nice . keep us posted . Ill be thinking about you .
hugs xxx
...noeleena....